#qi-hardware IRC log for Thursday, 2017-03-30

wpwrakfirst post, posted :)00:00
wpwrakah, now i get the <title>. literally, what goes there.00:11
wpwrakneat ! even has the logo :)00:26
wpwrakthe bad thing about having powerful CAD system (solvespace) and a 3d printer (much quicker and painless turn-around than milling) is that one gets ambitious and wants to fix minor flaws right away, instead of postponing fixing them01:04
whitequarkI actually just got a 3d printer and found it incredibly painful to use01:10
whitequarkin fact I wasn't successful in getting a single print from it01:10
whitequarkwith a mill, at least you know where you're fucked. with a printer? "it doesn't stick", now good luck figuring that out01:10
wpwrakaah yes, read a lot about such problems ;-)01:21
wpwrakdoes your printer have a heated build plate ?01:21
whitequarkprusa bed mk2b plus glass01:23
wpwrakdid you apply hair spray to the glass before printing ?01:23
whitequarkhair what?01:23
whitequarkI cleaned the glass with acetone01:23
whitequark(and I'm printing with PLA)01:24
wpwrakthe stuff many people use for fixing hair01:24
whitequarkwhat happens is PLA gets squished onto the glass and then it just comes off01:24
whitequarkright after the nozzle leaves01:24
wpwrakPLA is good to get started. very forgiving.01:24
wpwrakyup, insufficient adhesion. you need a strong hair spray on that plate.01:25
wpwrakafter that, you'll complain that your prints won't come off :)01:25
whitequarkI've had multiple people tell me that PLA shouldn't come off either clean glass, or painter's tape on that glass01:25
whitequarkyet it doesn't even try to adhere01:26
wpwrakthe trick for that is to put the mirror in the freezer. pla and glass contract differently, breaking the pla-hair spray-glass bond. then the prints come off easily01:26
whitequarkanother issue is the output of slicer seems broken in inexplicable ways01:27
wpwrakmaybe people just let enough crud accumulate on the glass that the pla eventually does stick :)01:27
wpwrakusing slic3r ?01:27
whitequarkwhen I issue gcodes manually, I can extrude a trail of plastic (that comes off glass)01:27
whitequarkwhen I use slic3r, gcode looks right but nothing actually gets extruded01:27
wpwraki found it a tad frustrating, too. switched to cura. cura is a slug but the paths tend to be pretty good.01:28
wpwrakah yes, i had slic3r do that, too01:28
whitequarkwhat's the deal with it?01:28
wpwrakdunno. the regular version worked, but the prusa edition didn't. i just gave up and continued with cura.01:29
whitequarkI'm using the one from apt01:30
wpwraki don't think i ever tried that one. chances are it's obsolete :)01:30
wpwrakanyway, the cure to your build plate adhesion should be hair spray. like the red one in this group: http://www.distribuidoramoron.com/eshop/image/cache/data/pack_spray-500x554.jpg01:33
wpwraki.e., the strongest/stickiest01:33
wpwrakthe PLA can also fail to stick if the print head is too high, if the temperature is widely off, or if the flow is too low. but i'd try hair spray first.01:34
wpwrakmeh, wildly off, of course01:35
wpwrakwhat nozzle diameter does your printer have ?01:35
whitequarkhm, the print head is approximately one paper thickness above the glass01:37
whitequarkthe temp is 65°C on the bed, 185°C on the nozzle, also I tried higher01:37
whitequarkthis one is a 0.4mm nozzle, with 1.75mm filament01:37
wpwraktemperature sounds good. the paper height ... when the head is "down", it shouldn't be possible to move the paper (without tearing). unless the head is very clean, in which case it's okay if you feel the resistance but can move it01:39
whitequarkwell I just cleaned the head by immersing it in acetone and wiping it thoroughly01:40
wpwrakif using cura, you'll find that it won't let you set the nozzle size to 0.4 mm. so you have to fake it by changing line width (to 0.4 mm) and flow from 100% to 130%. it's not super-criticial to get these right, but once i found out that i had to change the flow, too, a lot of smaler problems vanished01:41
wpwrakif in doubt about the head height, you can just adjust it down a little. if it's a little to low, the bottom layer will be "fat", but you can fix that later01:43
whitequarkhm, cura actually has an UI that's not outright broken on my PC, that's a good sign01:43
whitequarkcura let me set the nozzle dia to 0.4mm btw01:43
wpwrakoh, and you should enable a "skirt". that way, you're sure to have a positive flow by the time it gets to the actual print01:43
whitequark21.04, downloaded from the apt repos on the official website01:44
wpwrakdoes it also stay at 0.4 mm ? :)01:44
wpwrakhmm, literally "21.04" ? the numbers should be 2.1, ..., 2.4. i'm at 2.401:45
wpwrakthis is what my version looks like: http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/tmp/cura.png01:47
wpwrakolder versions had a different arrangement of the GUI01:47
whitequarkthat looks completely unlike my cura01:47
wpwrakheh, thought so :) i think the inability to set the nozzle diameter is a "new feature"01:48
wpwraki even found a post where they "explain" why it is bad if you want that. the day job of whoever wrote that piece may be in the ministry of abundance and transparency of north korea ...01:51
wpwrakanyway, also the old one is supposed to work well. and it's said to produce significantly faster gcode.01:52
whitequarkwpwrak: alright, thanks for the suggestion05:10
wpwrakdid it work ?06:18
whitequarkwpwrak: don't know, no hair spray18:30
wpwrakcosmetics shops turn out to be surprisingly useful when 3d-printing ;-)19:03
whitequarkyeah but that requires me to go out of the house and/or to be awake at day19:14
whitequarkthat's hard y'know19:14
wpwrakyeah, i know the sheer suckishness of that. but ... don't you actually have 24/7 shops ? you're in hkg, right ?19:18
wpwrakah, thought you had moved there. so you're still in .ru ?22:06
--- Fri Mar 31 201700:00

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