#qi-hardware IRC log for Friday, 2014-05-16

wpwrak(http://blog.p-dev.net/) seems that he's trying to do about the same thing, BTLE-wise, i'll eventually be after01:27
nicksydneygot the parcel from taobao.com02:49
nicksydneywill post few pictures02:49
nicksydneyoverall exprience with taobaoring.com was very good ... except 1 thing i noticed when I received the RA8875 chip it was outside of it's plastic container which i think was a mistake from their side as they did not wrap full plastic proplery02:50
nicksydneyhttp://postimg.org/image/eocz8mmzj/ http://postimg.org/image/lssyc23lh/ http://postimg.org/image/je12rmncl/  http://postimg.org/image/o0n1s1jhn/  http://postimg.org/image/tmn2qkb8f/02:53
rohwhat do you plan to hack? something like this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1590 ?02:56
rohseems a nice chip02:58
nicksydneyroh: yes exactly...but the board will have all in one...the RA8875 + Cortex-M (or AVR) + BLE 03:00
nicksydneyand possibly some small sensors like temp, humidity, proximity, etc03:00
rohi see03:07
rohhow far does btle work in reality? (4meters? more?)03:07
rohsounds nice and low power (basically mostly the display i guess)03:08
nicksydneynot sure about how far wpwrak will have some idea as he has been working with BLTE for a while03:09
wpwraknaw, he has no clue. he hasn't even had a proper transmission yet :)03:23
wpwrakregarding BTLE, i decided that what i have seen so far looks good enough that i believe we can make it work with the CC254303:23
wpwrakthere are other people working on related items, so my plan is to simply wait for their results :)03:24
nicksydneywpwrak: etched the TPS61040 board http://postimg.org/image/536c7bomb/ http://postimg.org/image/e0r24oh2b/ 05:31
nicksydneygoing to solder and component and cross finger :)05:31
Luke-JrThe Ben-WPAN page hasn't been updated in a year; what is the status of atusb? Is it likely to be usable in the near future?06:13
kyakwhat is a year compared to the eternal universe?..06:16
Luke-Jrwell, I'm hoping to get some sensors in place in the next month ideally.. :p06:19
Luke-Jrtrying to choose hardware, and always prefer to support open stuff06:19
kyakwe had a discussion with werner some time ago, and i decided settled down with this: http://www.ti.com/tool/430boost-cc110l06:22
kyak19 USD, free shipping, arrived in three days to Russia (which is amazing)06:23
kyaksince it plug directly into MSP430 Launchpad, i decided that it is ideal for my sensors network06:23
Luke-Jrthese can do 802.15.4? O.o06:25
kyaki just had to fired up Energia IDE, and bum - i'm sending packets in no time06:25
kyakno, it's not 802.15.406:25
kyaki'm just saying how it works and how it should work06:25
Luke-Jrso I would need to basically create my own sensors to use this?06:26
kyaknow i'd like to rumbble about open source vs. closed, but user friendly source, but i have to go06:26
kyakmm.. i don't quite get your question06:26
kyaki read external sensors with MCU, and send send the data with CC110L06:27
nicksydneyquestion...i've seen dev board (mainly ARM based Cortex A9/A8) with LVDS connector does this mean that it is possible to connect LVDS board such as this http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Controller-Board-DIY-Kit-RTD2270L-Driver-LVDS-Inverter-Turn-LCD-to-Monitor-/110925504614 to the board ?12:12
wpwraknicksydney: the etching is a bit rough but the board should be quite usable. good progress !12:41
wpwrakLuke-Jr: define "usable" :)12:41
Luke-Jrwpwrak: routable IPv6 link? :13:07
nicksydneywpwrak: got a question15:57
nicksydneymanaged to soldered all the component15:57
nicksydneythis is the schematic http://postimg.org/image/alfjpod1n/ .... what i've used different is wpwrak R1 i don't have 150K so i used 100K while the rest are still the same D1, D2 and D3 I've used Schootky Rectifier 500ma 30V and i use the the input voltage (using battery) at around 5.6V and I'm getting reading of 28V16:00
nicksydneyaccording to datasheet http://postimg.org/image/4nx1cd8gb/ with the formula stated that i calculate i should be getting around 13V but i'm getting 28V am i missing something or is it because the diode is rated at 30V ?16:01
wpwrakdiode rating only determines how high it can go16:22
nicksydneydamn it! so that means I've done something wrong 16:24
wpwrakand 20 V looks about right16:25
nicksydneyi'm getting 28V16:25
nicksydneythat's way too high isn't it ?16:25
wpwrakthat's some ugly soldering ...16:26
nicksydneyyeah i know :)16:27
wpwrakdid you use flux at all ?16:27
nicksydneylots of flux16:27
wpwrakthen the temperature of your iron was too low16:27
wpwrakyou had trouble getting the tin to liquify, didn't you ?16:27
nicksydneyyeah the iron was at 350C16:28
wpwrak350 C should be plenty16:28
wpwrakbut maybe what you set isn't what it does :)16:28
nicksydneyyeah perhaps this is china soldering station so can't trust it too much16:28
wpwrakdid you have trouble getting the tin to liquify ? despite these 350 C16:29
nicksydneysince i don't have osc what's best way to debug the problem ?16:29
nicksydneyyeah it was bit slow to liquify16:29
wpwrakone hint: always have a bit of tin on the tip of the iron, that will conduct the heat16:29
wpwrak(slow) so i read the scratch marks right ;-)16:30
wpwrakcan you set the iron hotter ?16:31
nicksydneythe max is 480 so can set to max16:31
wpwrakwell, try that16:31
wpwraksolder joints should be smooth16:31
wpwrakyour look as if you had tossed liquid metal into water16:32
wpwraknow, i don't know whether temperature is your problem or something else16:32
wpwrakso you may burn up something at 400 C. i hope you have spare parts :)16:32
nicksydneyso you mean the problem could be because of solder joint ?16:33
wpwrakthe soldering is sufficiently chaotic that i can't tell whether you have connections or not16:33
wpwrakand of course, say, R1 is not connected, you can get pretty much anything16:34
wpwrakspeaking oif which, where is R1 ?16:34
nicksydneythe one that says 10316:35
wpwrakand the one that says is 104 ?16:35
nicksydneythat's 100K16:35
wpwrakerr, the one that says 104 is R2 ?16:35
wpwrakso R1 is 10k and R2 is 100k ?16:37
wpwrakand now 150k/10k as in the schematics ?16:37
nicksydneysorry R2 the one with 103 and R1 is with the one 10416:38
wpwrakso you should get about 13.6 V16:38
nicksydneyyeah that's what i thought but i'm getting 28V :(16:39
nicksydneycrap ! :(16:39
wpwrakwhat's that white thing ? C2 ?16:40
nicksydneyyeah that's 22pf16:41
wpwrakcan you measure the resistance across the resistors ? could be that one is shorted16:43
wpwrakmeasure in both directions. the more correct result is the higher of the two16:43
wpwrakalso, since you have large capacitors, wait until the measurement stabilizes16:43
nicksydneythe 103 resistor reads 1.2316:45
wpwrakkOhm ? or Ohm ?16:45
nicksydney104 reads 11.2816:45
nicksydneyR2 = 103 = 10K16:46
nicksydneyR1 = 104 = 100K16:46
wpwrakdid you measure each both ways ? i.e., flipping the probes ?16:47
nicksydneyyup 16:47
wpwrakboth readings are surprisingly low. especially that of R116:49
wpwrakbut the readings were kOhm ? 1.23 kOhm and 11.28 kOhm ?16:49
wpwrakah, and don't measure at the chip directly. measure on the adjacent traces.16:50
nicksydneyhang on you mean measure the voltage across the resistor ?16:50
wpwrakno, the resistance16:50
nicksydneyoh sorry that was the measurement for the voltage...let me do again16:50
wpwrakand of course, with power and load disconnected16:51
nicksydneyok no battery16:52
wpwrakand nothing on the output either16:53
nicksydneyok for R2....i switch the multimeter knob to 20k and the reading i get 9.816:53
nicksydneyand for R1 the multimeter knob is on 200k and the reading i get 2 different reading....68 and 92/9316:55
nicksydney2 reading with different switch probe16:55
wpwrakokay, that's also good16:56
wpwrakthe 68 kOhm probably includes current going through the diode16:56
wpwrakyou can now search for flaws further away from the components. test conductivity across the same net ("wire" in kicad) from component pin to component pin 17:00
wpwrake.g., TPS1.SW(1) to D1.A, L1.left, usw.17:01
wpwrakmaybe something isn't connected17:01
wpwrakif you see a possible short, also check that17:01
nicksydneyok i'll try that17:02
wpwrakalso, don't spend too much time trying to fix it. sometimes something weird goes wrong. then it's often easier to just make a new board.17:02
wpwrak(and you can improve your soldering in the process, too :)17:02
nicksydneyhow do you measure capacitor to see if it is functioning properly ?17:05
nicksydneyin terms of wiring is the layout correct http://postimg.org/image/pokq99okt/ ?17:11
nicksydneyif i measure from the marked location http://postimg.org/image/4gs08nufh/ i'm getting 28V17:16
nicksydneyusing this picture http://postimg.org/image/ujvf4e1lv/ if i put the GND of multimeter to GND of batter and the red probe I touch the other pad (red circle) i get reading of 13.60 while if i move the red probe to the blue circle i get reading of -14.917:18
nicksydneycould it be i measure it in the wrong location ? 17:18
nicksydneyhmmm..14.9 + 13.6 approx 28.5 17:19
nicksydneywpwrak: what you think ?17:19
wpwrakhmm, the right point is your negative outout17:47
wpwrakso the first one should yield about 2*13.6 V17:48
wpwrakso it appears that your circuit is working after all. you just have to measure correctly :)17:48
nicksydneywpwrak: when you say negative output which one ?22:53
nicksydneywpwrak: for sanity sake can you tell me whether this is correct and i'm doing it the right way ......... this picture http://postimg.org/image/p45xrpjzn/ with the setup described on the pic i get +13.60v ... this picture with the setup described http://postimg.org/image/k8trzrsxt/ i get -14.9V and last with this picture with the setup described  in the picture http://postimg.org/image/ffomxgnxz/ i'm getting 28v23:48
nicksydneywas chatting with you at 2am don't know whether i was awake or asleep so thought of doing it with the description in the picture to make it easier for me to stay sane :))23:49
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